Impressions of Virginia and Sonoma wines

We were in Sonoma County early in 2013 and tasted our way around the Dry Creek, Alexander Valley, and Russian River Valley American Viticultural Areas (AVA).  As we tasted our way across northern Sonoma we were surprised to find that the better quality Virginia wines we enjoy back home compared very favorably with the wines we were tasting in Sonoma.

Obviously, Sonoma wins hands-down on varieties such as Zinfandel, Petite Sirah, and Pinot Noir.  Very few Virginia winemakers grow these varieties for good reason.  There is some decent Pinot Noir being produced at select sites in Virginia, but nothing like those being produced in the Russian River Valley.

Sauvignon Blanc:  Believe it or not we didn't taste any Sauvignon Blanc in Sonoma, and there is a lot grown there in Dry Creek and Alexander Valley, that tasted as good to us than our favorite Virginia Sauvignon Blancs from Glen Manor, Veritas, or Breaux.  This was a surprise.  California winemakers seem to like a "softer" style of Sauvignon Blanc than Virginia's winemakers.  Merry Edwards made a very nice one in this style, but we'll stick to Glen Manor.

Viognier:  More and more Sonoma winemakers are producing Viognier.  They were OK, but none were as good as Virginia ones we have tried.  We could rattle off at least half a dozen Virginia Viogniers that would beat any Sonoma Viognier we tasted.

Chardonnay:  OK, Sonoma is producing some extraordinary Chardonnay.  We noticed a trend to less oaky Chardonnay on this trip. Generally speaking, Sonoma Chardonnay is better than Virginia Chardonnay. However, we both commented that several of the better Virginia Chardonnays would hold their own with their Sonoma peers. 

Cabernet Franc:  A few Sonoma wineries produce separate bottling of Cabernet Franc.  Most still use Cabernet Franc is Meritage blends.  Based on the few Sonoma Cabernet Franc tastings we did, we have to say that Virginia Cabernet Franc is superior.

Red blends:  Sorry Virginia wine fans, Sonoma red blends are just better.  This was true across the county, whether in Dry Creek, the Alexander Valley, or the main Sonoma area.  The best of Sonoma red blends are world-class and there are a lot of them.  Even at the $20 a bottle range there are lovely red blends.  As the recent Virginia Governor's cup shows, Virginia can and does make some very good red blends, but that is a dozen or two across the state, not the multiples of those numbers that Sonoma produces. 

Dessert wines:  Things become more interesting in this category.  We didn't see a single wine made with hybrids in Sonoma.  All of their dessert wines are made with vinifera and many using traditional methods from the country of origin.  We tasted many wonderful dessert wines.  That said, we think Virginia dessert wines hold their own with their Sonoma counterparts.  It is just lining up a comparison is difficult given the many methods and grapes in use in Virginia, including several hybrids.

One subject I haven't written about yet is wine at the lower end of the quality spectrum. Unfortunately for us here in the Commonwealth, the quality bar is still higher in Sonoma than in Virginia, based on our experience. Hopefully that situation will continue to improve too.

In the time between our fist visit to Sonoma and our second visit, Virginia wines seem to have improved when compared to Sonoma wines, at least the quality ones have.  Of course it is possible, but unlikely, that Sonoma wine quality deteriorated in that time. Another possibility, that out palates have changed and we are more aware of what we are tasting and are more appreciative of Virginia wines, is far more likely.  In any case, try some Virginia wines if you haven't already.  We think you will be pleased that you did.